A pioneering entrepreneur opening up the frontier of deep West Oakland, Tanya Holland is also a remarkably creative chef (with TV and cookbook cred). Her upscale take on soul food classics, including stone-ground grits, biscuits, wood-smoked jerk chicken, pineapple-glazed baby back ribs, creole barbecue shrimp, pulled pork, gumbo, seared fish and steaks and such sides as mac and cheese, black-eye pea salad and skillet cornbread keep this gleaming high-end diner packed with satisfied customers of every class and culture. Daily specials include soup, composed salads and a vegetarian entree, and the elegant presentations add beautiful grace notes to the tantalizing tastes. Blue Bottle coffee, masterful desserts and a smart wine list are bonus delights. Sign up at www.brownsugarkitchen.com for notification about special wine-pairing suppers. Breakfast and lunch Tue.Sun.