Former Chez Panisse chef Russell Moore takes everything about SLO (seasonal, local, organic) food seriously, to the point of cooking almost everything in the huge fireplace and wood oven that dominate the view into the open kitchen, changing the small menu every day according to what’s available and restricting the bar menu to artisan spirits (and no vodka). That ideological stance, which results in only four or five starters/salads and three entrees a night, with main course prices averaging more than $20, excludes many potential diners and alienates others. But with perfect preparation of everything from roasted sardines and grilled albacore and quail to inventive vegetarian alternatives (polenta doesn’t get any better), a good (but mostly imported) wine list, homey desserts and a spacious, lodge-like setting with 30-foot-long communal redwood tables, the simultaneously Spartan and sumptuous Camino sets new standards for rustic sophistication. Dinner Wed.Mon. and weekend brunch.