There’s a lot to like about this little taqueria. First, take in the décor: painted distressed wood furniture, eye-popping calaveras, a velet Virgin of Guadalupe, hanging burlap curtains, dangling metal skeletons, and nooks and crannies that hide a well-appointed tequila and mescal bar and cozy booth. Then consider the food, ordered as you walk along the cook station. This is fresh, straight-forward Mexican food that you can dress up at the salsa bar, though El Gusano isn’t lacking for a love of spices that give the guacamole a kick and some sauces a tingle. Tamales, tostadas, burritos, and tacos (traditional or super) are in the mix in many combinations, or try pambazos, billed as a Mexio City sandwich; chile rellenos; or the solo carne, which is just meat, rice, beans, and warm tortillas. What’s not to like?