Many apexes are on display at Homestead. The farm-to-table, rustic-chic, upscale apex ace excels at local/seasonal/sustainable/organic ingredients, making practically everything in house. It shines with creativity, understated showmanship, ethics, and price while reinventing the menu often and cleverly. At the moment, you may marvel at the heartiest house-baked bread and the ultra-rich house-churned butter, swoon over a glorious melon gazpacho, and sigh over the blistered summer beans and Monterey squid. Or you may be transfixed by the maitake mushrooms paired with pickled peppers and crumbly ricotta in sweet-corn salad because they taste like a holy cross between the forest floor and clouds. Dishes here burst with Wild West flavor and entice with adventure. And there is an additional cross-current circuit that connects creator and consumer: It’s an almost tangible spirit, one that also resides at favorites like Tigerlily, Hopscotch, Comal, Ramen Shop, Chop Bar, and Gather. It’s a thing. A very good thing. Serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tuesday through Saturday and dinner only on Sunday.