Kakui Sushi fully warrants the buzz that arose as soon as it opened its handsome wood door and small crowds were spotted waiting to get in. Owner Yingji Huang melds urban Japan’s after-work izakaya tradition of small plates and drinks with the in-demand fusion approach to upscale California-Japanese cuisine. The expansive sake list, augmented by food-friendly wines and Japanese beers, should be a primary draw, but it’s Kakui’s selection of fancy rolls (maki sushi) that keeps the place jumping with the most popular seeming to be the most over-the-top—the Four Seasons, the Oakland PD and the JP. They are ikebana-like arrangements of multi-hued rolls and the psychedelic drizzles and smears of sauces and 3-D polka-dots. For those who prefer a more traditional path, Kakui offers straightforward sashimi, basic maki and nigiri, and there are copious salads, agemono (fried dishes) and yakimono (substantial grilled specialties). Lunch offers udon or soba noodles and various bento combinations ($10$14). Don’t be surprised when you find reasons for return trips. Serves lunch and dinner daily.