Tiny Kamdesh spruces up dramatically with a move into an enormous space a mere few blocks away, landing in a perfect spot to showcase its wonderful Afghan cuisine, primarily kebabs. The stylish space contains beautiful murals of galloping horses and brightly costumed women that convey a sense of the colorful culture of Afghanistan. The tandoori-style kebabs of beef, lamb, or chicken have a bright red tinge and are deliciously spiced, and the lamb chops are truly amazing. Brown basmati rice and Afghan naan turned the kebabs and chops into a full meal, and ground sumac added a faint sour zing. The appetizer of mantoo—beef-and-onion filled dumplings atop yogurt sauce—was plate-licking good. Enjoy it all with doogh, a yogurt-mint-cucumber concoction, for a cooling, pleasant sensation. Then add firnee, a pudding, for dessert with black or green tea. Serves lunch and dinner daily.