Kaze escalates the ramen noodle soup wars, handily gaining the advantage over other recent ramen-come-latelies. This is not the instant kind that’s been mass-marketed since 1958, but the rich, hearty, once-humble dish devised by immigrant Chinese cooks in early 20th-century Japan, where it was first called shina soba or “Chinese noodles.” A staple for a century, it’s now enjoying intensely ardent fandom in the West, where aficionados argue hair-splittingly about broth density, noodle circumference, and which style is the ultimate best. Kaze Ramen offers a relatively minimalistic menu, showing its owners know what ramen fans want: chewy, squiggly, yellowish, and slightly-narrower-than-standard wheat noodles basking in ivory-white boiled-pork-bone tonkotsu broth, crowned with of shredded vegetables and bean sprouts, a tasty, pasty-yolked ajitsuke soy-sauce-soft-boiled egg, a nori square, optional corn kernels, and/or dollops of pepper-paste “spice bomb.” Batter-fried pork cutlet, tonkatsu, is popular here; so is chashu, teasingly sweet braised pork belly. The broth here tastes like absolute transcendant nonvegetarian heaven. Simple and rich, it’s simply rich enough to fortify the weak and possibly revive the dead. Let the arguments ensue. Serves lunch and dinner daily.