The taste of the Southern comfort food is in full swing at this lunch spot helmed by Deimentrius Clay, where stick-to-your-ribs soul food stars. Shrimp po’ boys, smothered oxtails, and green beans cooked damn near to liquidity plus fried things are on the menu, with Clay carrying the cooking torch from her mother, Louisianan native Esther Clay—the original “Lady Esther”—who ran a soul food eatery in East Oakland for decades. Clay serves up unapologetically hearty, solid food in an unpretentious setting and it is decidedly un-trendy. The food is heavy, and it’s not quick, but must-orders are the juicy, flavorful fried chicken, Creole-kicked po’ boys, and “Uncle Big’s” oxtails. Stick to basic sides of mashed potatoes and collard greens. Give Lady Esther’s a shot: It’s food worth keeping around. Serves lunch Mon.-Fri.