It’s the small, rustic Park Street restaurant with the heavy wooden chairs and tables, photographs of old Vilnius, tavern-like appointments, and dense, dark, pungent rye bread and superb beer. Mama Papa presents humble yet restaurant-worthy versions of Lithuanian home cooking. “Mama” is Damute Sukiene, and her recipes populate the menu and set the tone. Her son, Vaidas Sukys, is the proprietor—a 15-year Alameda resident who left a corporate career to open Mama Papa. The food speaks in a heavy, starchy voice, though there are whispers from chilled, crisp cucumber salad and the savory borscht with mushrooms and vegetables. Other starters include cold borscht, cream of mushroom soup, and salmon, beet, or cabbage salads. The full Mama Papa experience begs for one or two of the main dishes, so try the classic potato pancakes, also available filled with ground pork; the stuffed cabbage rolls (balandeliai), the boneless stuffed chicken breasts (vistienos suktinukas), the pan-fried chicken thigh with melted cheese (vistienos kepsnys), or chicken goulash (Lietuviskas vistienos troskinys). You would need sumo appetites to also try the flour dumplings and desserts. Put simply, it’s hard to imagine ever leaving Mama Papa hungry. Serves lunch and dinner daily.