No matter what time of day you walk through the friendly front doors of Phnom Penh House, a casual, reliably excellent Cambodian restaurant in Oakland’s Chinatown, you will be greeted by a smile and a wave to take a seat anywhere you want. And that’s how it’s been since 1986 when the family-owned business began serving authentic dishes (66 of them, in fact) from tofu and broccoli with peanut sauce to samlaw machhou phnom-pehn, a fresh prawn soup, with melt-apart-delicious fish, sweet pineapple, tomato, and tart lemongrass. Parents and little ones are welcomed, and it is not infrequent to find the owners’ kids doing homework at the big circular table during lunch. Décor includes an intricate gold carving that parades along the walls under large landscape paintings. Service is seamless, but it’s the food that draws locals back in devoted droves. The ground pork egg rolls with shredded carrots, cabbage, bean thread, and black pepper are unbeatably crispy, and the pan-fried noodles served with bean sprouts, green onion, and egg are spot-on every time. (These are bright orange, glassy miracles spiced with chili sauce.) But the take-home delight is the deep-fried calamari, and if you wrap it in a buttery lettuce leaf, and dip it in sweet and sour sauce, you may just believe you are actually in Cambodia’s capitol city. (There is a second location, equally addictive, in the Laurel District: 3912 MacArthur Blvd., 510-482-8989.) Lunch and dinner Mon.Sat.