Peruvian cooking in the East Bay hasn’t become synonymous with haute cuisine, but Pucquio is changing that. The minisucle, easy-to-miss College Avenue 20-seater concentrates on complex cebiches, taking common cuisine from commonplace to exceptional. Carlos Moreira and his wife, Lissette Quiroz, are at the helm, delivering “contemporary Peruvian street food,” though it is closer in concept and execution to fine dining than diner or truck-stop fare. Ingredients for cebiches, platanos fritos, tacu-tacu marisco, lomo saltado, and other menu offerings are plucked from local markets and artisan purveyors and then transformed into dazzling delights. From the humble plantains to the intricate cebiches and ambitious entrées, the chef’s respect, even reverence, for his ingredients (and his customers) gives a Pucquio meal a singular vibrancy. It doesn’t come cheap, but you get what you pay for—one of the best nights out the East Bay has to offer. Serves dinner Tue.-Sun.