Bringing a bit of North Beach to the Elmwood, the D’Alo family (linked to Caffe Sport) oversees an extensive southern Italian menu that’s virtually peerless in the East Bay. The rustic heartiness of the food and the swiftness of the service, complemented by a good, affordable wine list, counter the frenzy of the crowd in this typically overflowing but charmingly appointed narrow storefront. The entire menu has kick, from the spicy, garlicky dipping oil for the soft Italian bread through more than a dozen intriguing antipasti and salads to such captivating pasta dishes as bucatini chi finucchiede. Groups of three or more can (and should!) eat family style. Dinner nightly.