The latest project from chef/restaurateur Chikara Ono of Old Oakland’s AS B-Dama and Delage has given the Island City an unprecedented, Tokyo-worthy Japanese fine-dining destination. The $100-per-person okimari (set menu) meal is a collaborative effort between kitchen chef Asuka Uchida and sushi chef Joji Nonaka. You sit in minimalist surroundings at a seven-seat counter, perhaps sipping excellent sake, and partake of nearly 20 individually presented items. Chef Nonaka provides the show, slicing glistening fish and placing it atop red-vinegar-enhanced sushi rice. His nigiri appears between deliveries from the kitchen, which could include silken puréed asparagus with anchovy, savory five-mushroom soup, fresh greens in a Japanese salt plum vinaigrette with a quail egg, pickled root vegetables, or a large Hamaguri clam. The fish, much from Japan, could be sea bream, needlefish, freshwater sweetfish from near Mount Fuji, Hokkaido uni, or fatty blue fin. Every meticulous carved bit is a delight of gorgeous presentation, heavenly mouth feel, and subtle accents of soy and fresh wasabi. A Tokyo, New York, and San Francisco veteran, Chef Nonaka is a master to be reckoned with. Serves okimari (set menu) dinner Wed.–Sat. with seatings at 5:30 p.m. and 8 p.m.