Wooden Table Adds New Treats: Conitos

These dulce de leche “mountains” are named after real Andean peaks.


Wooden Table does beautiful conitos, flat cookies topped with a mountain of dulce de leche covered with chocolate.

Photo by Lori Eanes

One great thing about cookies is how infinitely adaptable — that is, improvable — they are.

In 1947, the Argentinean cookie company Havanna began developing a recipe that entailed piling dulce de leche atop a flat cookie, then coating this peaky creation in a chocolate shell. Dubbed “Havannets,” these popular treats inspired consumers to home-bake their own versions, generically calling them conitos — Spanish for “little cones.”

“The fun part for me was the shape, since you could start by biting off the tip of the mountain. Just the sound of the cracking of the chocolate made me happy,” said Wooden Table Baking Co. owner/baker Andreas Ozzuna, who grew up in Buenos Aires enjoying conitos as a rare treat and added them last year to the Oakland company’s repertoire.

“Then came the massive amount of dulce de leche to make your way though, and then the chocolate cookie left over to lick and crunch — kind of like an Oreo experience, but way, way better,” Ozzuna mused.

Each of these confections, coated in Guittard chocolate, is a one-of-a-kind sculpturette.

“The cookie base is easy enough to make, since it’s part of our alfajores” — the soft sandwich cookies that are Wooden Table’s signature treats.

The trickiest aspect of crafting conitos is that “the dulce de leche has to be just the right consistency to stay upright. Then you have to cover each one with chocolate by hand, without losing the shape, which is kind of a fun challenge,” Ozzuna said.

Each variety of conitos she makes is named after a different Argentinean mountain: Aconcagua conitos are drizzled with white chocolate to evoke that 22,841-foot peak’s glaciers; sea-salt-sprinkled Ojos del Salada conitos honor the Andean mountain bearing that name, known for its huge salt deposits.

That’s not so surprising, given that Ozzuna studied and worked as a geologist before founding Wooden Table in 2011. After six years spent selling baked goods online and through Whole Foods, the Berkeley Bowl, and other stores, she and her wife, Citabria Ozzuna, opened Wooden Table Café last fall in Uptown.

“As I was creating more varieties, experimenting in the kitchen, we started thinking about unique names for them, because they seemed so special. The Andes are an important geological feature of Argentina, so there was a sort of natural relationship there. We try to match each favor with a mountain that has a similar personality.”

Wooden Table Café, 2300 Broadway, Oakland, 510-879-6105, WoodenTableBaking.com.

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