Universal Appeal


Barceluna Does Tapas and More Right

Carole Anne Carroll
Photography by Robin Kilgore

That tendency you have to swipe a bite from someone else’s plate? It’s universal—almost every culture has a “try me” style of eating. The Chinese have dim sum, the Dutch have rijstafel and Spanish culture has tapas.
While funky Spanish fusion is the style of cooking at Barceluna, the cuisine is offered in the context of the shared communal experience evoked by tapas. “Tapas has small dishes meant to be shared, so each person tries a bit of everything,” says owner Charles Carlise, noting his natural affinity for such an eating style.
“I grew up in a family that had two rules when we went out to eat: Rule No. 1, use your best manners. Rule No. 2, you can’t order what someone else ordered, so everyone in the family can try a bit of each person’s plate. To me, growing up, that was the definition of going out to eat.”
    Now with children of his own, Carlise’s customers enjoy the small tapas dishes that encourage everyone to try a taste. “We have had many people try lamb, calamari, mussels, empanadas, etc., for the first time at Barceluna because they were afraid to make it at home or afraid to order, and pay for, a full dinner of an item with which they were not familiar. They get to experiment with food for little cost.”
    In addition to tapas, the restaurant offers a full-fledged dinner menu of salads and entrees. Like the tapas, however, these dishes involve traditionally Spanish cuisine with a California twist—thanks to Barceluna’s five chefs. “These five chefs have fresh ideas. They aren’t afraid to experiment. I give them free range in a lot of ways, and they are always trying to outdo each other,” explains Carlise. “It’s sort of our own version of Iron Chef, with the customers the winners.”
    That friendly competition ensures that diners benefit from ongoing innovation and changing specials. It also means that frequent customers never feel they are eating the same thing over and over again. The menu is adjusted periodically to take advantage of the Bay Area’s fresh produce and seasonal specialties.
Carlise explains that “Spanish fusion … is not traditional Spanish. This approach allows our chefs the freedom to experiment without the restraints of tradition. It also allows us to use many of the fresh local ingredients we are blessed with here in the Bay Area. It would be a shame to forego our great local ingredients at the expense of being traditional.”
    That spirited blend of fresh food and fresh ideas has customers returning regularly. They sample tapas such as crab tostadas, wild mushroom and prosciutto empanadas, extreme wings and prosciutto-wrapped grilled asparagus spears. They also try larger, entree-style versions of many of those dishes and more. They like what they are eating and are coming back for more.
    In the year that Barceluna has been open, its reputation as an excellent Spanish-fusion restaurant—and the only tapas bar in Alameda—has provided it with a strong and growing clientele. Look for announcements about the restaurant’s one-year anniversary celebration soon.
    The restaurant has developed a reputation for its monthly wine dinners, which pair mostly Spanish wines with complementary tapas. Eschewing snobbery, Carlise aims the dinners at those who wish to try new things and learn a bit about the featured food and wine. “Each month we feature a four-course dinner paired with Spanish wines. This month, the cost is $35. That will be more for some dishes, such as crab, but we try to keep the cost of the event under $50,” he says. “And the chefs have a good time with it.”
    Such success would seem to indicate that Carlise is a master chef, perhaps trained in hospitality management or business operations, maybe even learning the restaurant business from relatives or early mentors. Yet Carlise was trained and working as a lawyer for a title company when the opportunity to open a restaurant presented itself.
    “Owning a restaurant is something I’ve always wanted to do,” he explains. “I don’t miss practicing law whatsoever. Operating a restaurant every day has its moments of ups and downs, but on the whole, I couldn’t be happier.”
    As a 15-year Alameda resident, Carlise also enjoys working and owning a business in the same community where he lives. “I get to pick up my kids at school, and I never got to do that before,” he explains. The restaurant is just blocks away from his Alameda home, which he shares with his wife and two children, making it easier to spend time with family while also operating a business he enjoys. “The hours can be tough, but this has been well worth the change.”

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