Cravings

This Little Piggy

The old-fashioned English expression “hungry as a hunter” came to mind when I scanned the lunch menu at Mona’s Table on a foggy spring day in Alameda. Don’t you find that chilly weather stimulates your appetite? Feeling I could eat a horse (to draw on another English-ism), I settled for the “Asian hoisin pulled pork on sourdough roll, crunchy slaw in a spicy cilantro sauce and pepper jack cheese” ($8.25). Hoisin, of course, is the sweet and spicy dark sauce with soybeans, garlic, chile peppers and more—sometimes called Peking sauce—used a lot in Chinese cooking. The combined ingredients made for a delicious meal that was light yet substantial and filling—quite unlike the Kansas City–style pulled pork sandwich that, drenched with gravy, can weigh one down and induce hibernation.
    What I ate was representative of the fare at Mona’s, where the menu is all about fresh and seasonal, and all sandwiches come with a well-dressed (with a pomegranate vinaigrette) side salad.
    Owner-chef Mona Personium launched a catering business in Oakland nearly seven years ago when her son was 6 months old. In 2006, wanting a bigger space and to add a small restaurant, the former set dresser—she trained in the film industry—moved her business to Alameda. Her casual, bright, cafe-style eatery also serves up a selection of pretty irresistible homemade desserts and pastries, which guests are welcome to linger over along with a cup of Peaberry’s coffee—all very satisfying. But when you really want to pig out, you might try the pork.
    Mona’s Table, 3215 Encinal Ave., Unit A; open for breakfast and lunch, 10:30 a.m.–4 p.m. Mon.–Fri.,
9 a.m.–3 p.m. Sat., (510) 814-6179, www.monas-table.com.