World Peas


Pods Add Crunch and Punch


Dan "The Produce Man" Avakian
Photo: National Garden Bureau

Small farms with artichokes, Brussels sprouts, zucchini and pumpkins are scattered about the charming coastal town of Half Moon Bay, where Louis Iacoppi’s 100-acre farm is nestled between the landing strips at the Half Moon Bay Airport.
    Iacoppi has been farming there since 1962, following in the footsteps of his father, who began farming in the area in the 1930s. The cool, coastal climate at Iacoppi Farms is perfect for growing green beans and fresh peas in the pod. For years, most Bay Area grocery stores handled Iacoppi’s beans and peas during peak season. But he now also sells directly to consumers through Bay Area farmers markets.
    English peas are Iacoppi’s shining stars. Although growing regions like Mexico produce peas practically year-round, the best time of the year is May through August for the crop from Half Moon Bay. Other growing areas include Marin, Yolo and San Joaquin counties.
    It is not absolutely clear where English peas originated. Some historians believe they came from the Middle East through central Asia, northern Thailand or India. Evidence of wild peas has been discovered in archaeological digs of many cultures, with the oldest peas dating as far back as 9750 B.C. near Burma. Over the centuries through travel, trade and exploration, peas were brought west to Africa, up through the Middle East into Europe and eventually north to China. In the midst of their world tour, peas descended from their wild form to a genetically enhanced cultivated crop.
    So why the name “English peas”? Like most other fruit and vegetable varieties, today’s peas in the pod have been modified over the years. Because so many varieties of peas were developed in England, they became known as English peas.
    Here in the United States just 5 percent of the fresh English pea crop comes to the fresh market. More than half of the crop is canned, and the remainder is frozen.
    There is nothing like fresh peas right out of the pod. The texture is tender, and the flavor is sweet. When at the market, look for shiny, smooth-surfaced pods that are bright in color. The blossom end of the pod should be vibrant and green. Pick pods that are full but not puffy. The sweetest peas are in medium-width pods—not too big, not too small. It is best to open a pod or two and sample a few peas. They should be sweet and tender. If they are hard and starting to sprout, forget it.
    One way to check for freshness is to grab a handful and rub them together. If you get a crunchy squeaking sound, they’re fresh. Fresh peas will also have a good bounce to them once removed from the shell, but I don’t recommend bouncing them in the store. Try it at home for fun.
    At home, fresh peas should be consumed as soon as possible, because as soon as they are picked, the conversion from sugar to starch begins. Keep peas in the pod in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for no more than two days.
    Fresh peas are great addition to salads. Add them to potato or macaroni salad. Throw them in with sautéed vegetables or a pasta primavera. A serving of fresh peas, or about 2⁄3 cup, has 16 percent vitamin A, 13 percent vitamin B6 and 67 percent vitamin C, as well as folate, iron and phosphorus. Look for fresh English peas from Iacoppi Farms in stores and farmers markets right now. 

DAN AVAKIAN

Listen to Dan “The Produce Man” Avakian as he co-hosts “The Produce Pair” radio show at 9 a.m. Saturdays on UTN, the Universal Talk Network.
E-mail Dan at his Web site, www.producepair.com.