Cooking

Savor the Strange

Cauliflower Shines in This Piquant Pasta Dish

    Some vegetables fascinate me because of their unusual appearance—their exotic color or other unique characteristics. When it comes to botanical edibles, they just seem out of place in the scheme of things. To my way of thinking, the more unusual ones are, in no particular order, eggplants and tomatillos, quince fruit and Brussels sprouts, fennel, artichokes and, my favorite, cauliflower.
    What makes cauliflower unusual to me is that, in addition to its lumpy, coral-like structure, this member of the cabbage family has practically no color. Whereas most vegetables exposed to sunlight turn varying shades of green, or other vivid colors (some varieties of cauliflower are purple, and some have an orange tint), the cauliflower we’re all most familiar with is bright white. And while it doesn’t look like a flower, the white part of the plant is actually a clump of unopened flowers. If left to mature, this white section will sprout into tiny yellow flowers.
    Cauliflower probably originated in the Middle East. It has been mentioned in American cookbooks since at least 1891, and there is evidence that it came to North America with the explorers in the late-17th century. Early settlers valued this food and pickled their cauliflower so they could have vegetables out of season.
    It may not look like other vegetables, but like most, cauliflower is very nutritious and low in fat. It is very flexible in the kitchen, lending itself to a variety of cooking methods. It can be cooked until tender and then pureed with a little cheese, butter and cooking water to make a healthy mashed potato substitute. Restaurants often steam cauliflower with broccoli and summer squash and serve it as a side dish for almost any meat entree. My favorite way to eat cauliflower is described in the accompanying recipe. It’s a good example of how delicious even the strangest-looking vegetables can be once you’ve learned how to prepare them. When you experiment with foods that strike you as different or weird to look at, you’ll often find that not only are they good for you, they taste good, too.

4    quarts water
3    tablespoons salt
1    medium head cauliflower
2/3    cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2    teaspoon hot red chili flakes
4    medium-sized anchovy fillets (packed in oil)
3    slices prosciutto, sliced very thin and chopped into small pieces
4    cloves garlic, sliced very thin
1    lb pasta, such as penne, small shells, or rigatoni
1    cup grated Reggiano Parmigiano cheese
1/4    teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
3    tablespoons chopped, mixed herbs such as parsley, thyme, marjoram and basil

    Bring four quarts of water to a boil and add the salt. While the water is heating, break the cauliflower into small florets and remove any green leaves and the center core. When the water boils, add the cauliflower and cook until tender, about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain the cauliflower and reserve the cooking water at a simmer while you finish preparing the cauliflower.
    In a medium sauté pan, heat the olive oil until it shimmers. Add the chili flakes and the anchovies. Break the anchovies into small pieces with a fork and stir until they dissolve. Add the prosciutto and continue cooking until it is crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic slices and cook about a minute or until fragrant. Add the cooked cauliflower and stir into the sauce. Break the cauliflower into smaller pieces and mash some of them into the sauce. Turn the heat down to very low while you cook the pasta.
    Bring the same water you cooked the cauliflower in to a boil and add the pasta. Cook the pasta according to the instructions on the package, or, until it is al dente. Drain the pasta, reserving one cup of the cooking water. Pour the drained pasta into the sauce and return the heat to medium. Cook the mixture while stirring together for a few minutes. Add some of the reserved water if it becomes too dry—you want a sauce-like consistency. Just before serving, stir in the cheese, nutmeg and herbs. Serve with a green salad, a glass of Pinot Noir and crusty bread for a fabulous meal. Serves four to six.