Look South for Value and Quality Wine

Wines from Argentina are quickly becoming one of the hottest segments in the U.S. wine market. Why? A combination of great quality and stupendous value. Consumers can find great Argentine wines for as little as $10 per bottle, and these wines have a rich, plush and fruit-forward flavor profile.
Argentina’s wine exports to the United States have been growing by leaps and bounds, making Argentina the fifth largest wine producer in the world. According to wine importer Fran Kysela, M.S. and Kysela Père et Fils, “About 28 percent of our volume now comes from Argentine wines. Prior to 2005 this figure was less than 5 percent.”
Kysela imports more than 30 different wines from Argentina, most priced between $10 and $15 per bottle.
Before 1990, Argentina consumed more than 90 percent of the wine it produces, although much of it was bulk wine and considered unexportable. Argentine winemakers started to travel to other wine regions around the world, hiring consultants and modernizing their growing and vinification techniques. New wineries were built, and now Mendoza Province, the heart of Argentina’s wine region, is one of the country’s top tourist destinations.
For red wines, Malbec comprises the bulk of Argentina’s wine production, with more than 25,000 acres planted, followed up by Cabernet Sauvignon, Bonarda (called Charbono in the United States), Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Red wine comprises more than 65 percent of production.
Torrontés, thought to be either a cross between Muscat of Alexandria and the Mission table grape or a relative of Malvasia, is far and away the most popular white grape planted, followed by Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc
and others.
In Argentina though, Malbec is king. Malbec originally comes from Southwestern France where it is still grown. Argentine Malbec is different than its French cousin — the clusters are smaller and tighter, and the berries are smaller, producing a wine with deep color, intense fruity and sometimes chocolatey flavor with a
velvety mouthfeel.
Malbec production is centered around Mendoza Province, which has a micro climate that is phenomenal for wine grape growing. Set hard against the eastern side of the Andes in the high desert, Mendoza has little rain, high daytime temperatures and a long ripening cycle. The high elevation brings great daily temperature swings of up to 40 degrees, ideal for growing grapes; the dry climate provides less mold, mildew, insect and fungal problems than other growing areas, bringing a more consistent harvest with less reliance on chemicals.
Torrontés is mostly grown to the north of Mendoza in La Rioja and Salta provinces and produces an aromatic wine characterized by floral, fruity, Muscat-like aromas and a spicy, dry finish. Torrontés has been favorably compared to Gewürztraminer and Viognier, but with a decidedly drier finish.
Pinot Noir is also becoming an Argentine specialty, with production centered around Rio Negro and Neuquén in northern Patagonia. The wine industry in Patagonia is relatively new, with the Argentine government investing some of the income from the area’s substantial oil and natural gas reserves to create what could be called a wine homesteading program.

Here are a few of my favorite wines from Argentina:

Maipe ($11) — This Malbec has a deep purple color with violet tints, complex plum, fig, strawberry, spices and floral aromas; rounded and velvety tannins, excellent length with a distinguished character. Excellent when paired with game, roasted red meats, pasta or pizza.
Tiza ($20) — Contains fruit from some of the oldest vines in Mendoza more than 150 years old. Aged in new French oak barrels for 12 months. This wine offers a great intense and complex nose of wild berries and red ripe fruit with subtle spicy notes. Superb fruit flavors combine perfectly with toasty notes providing great structure, character, and a long finish.
El Felino ($22) — Made by famed California winemaker Paul Hobbs, this deep and rich wine has a wild cherry tinged nose and gobs of flavor.
Bramare Marchiori Vineyard ($85) — Single vineyard, new French oak, long extraction; an amazing wine with great depth, length and finish.
Maipe ($11) — A great introduction to Torrontés. Bright acidity, flowery nose and a dry finish.
Crios de Susana Balbo ($18) — More concentrated nose and finish than the Maipe, this wine is one of the benchmarks for the varietal, displaying a bouquet of spring flowers, honey, and tropical aromas.

This article appears in the July-August 2010 issue of Alameda Magazine
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